Recession May Mean Better Service in NYC

It was on a trip to Tuscany years ago that I developed my addiction to buffalo mozzarella. That's why my PIC (Partner In Crime) and I began our meal at Little Italy's Da Nico last week with an order of caprese. Really, we just wanted to dine alfresco on the first warm night of spring, and the siren's song of Da Nico's patio beckoned.

In New York, the endless stream of customers for even the shabbiest of venues means that, unless you're shelling out an obnoxious amount of money for dinner, you should just be happy if you get what your ordered--never mind service with a smile. So we grinned at the night sky as we sipped velvety Chianti and kissed the pillow-soft cheese, dreaming of being surrounded by Italian vineyards and ancient stone.

Enter Benny.

Bella Notte

Usually, I never order specials. To me, a special is something the Chef throws together with whatever ingredients are about to turn. But Benny had this way about him--this Roman je ne sais quois--and before I knew it, I was ordering the special: frutti de mare in fra diavolo.

Before long, Benny returned with a birdbath-sized bowl filled with what had to be 16 ounces of spaghetti. Reclining on the bed of pasta like languishing princes were two halves of a Maine lobster worthy of being an entree on their own. But they had company: frolicking throughout the spicy sea of sauce were plump mussels, coquettish clams and an array of butterflied grilled shrimp.

So I was already in bliss. My wine glass was perfectly topped off without my noticing, bruchetta was presented on the house, and I now had enough seafood to populate a respectable saltwater aquarium. And, we were outside!

In swoops Benny like a culinary superhero to take the evening to a whole new level. Benny--dear, dear Benny--proceeded to deshell all 200 pounds of my dinner while my PIC and I stared on in open shock and with immense pleasure. Neither of us had been treated so kindly at a meal since we'd each last been to Napa.

Desperate for Business?

It occurred to me that perhaps one of the, ahem, benefits of this recession--aside from rents around New York City coming down from the stratosphere called ridiculous--is that service industry folks might actually have to start giving good service. Rather than simply taking an order and refilling drinks, NYC servers may become engaged in their guests' dining experience. To back up this argument, I have noticed that cab drivers have seemed less surly lately, and coupons for sales and discounts are being handed out with abandon on the streets.

Could this down economy mean the rebirth of customer service? I'm almost tempted to call my mobile phone service provider--normally menacing at best--to see what happens. It's at restaurants were it hurts the most, though, the lackadaisical service. I'm passionate about my meals, which are really the only things on which I splurge, and it smarts to have them served to me with not only dispassion, but often malice, by the waitrons. I'm elated at the prospect of kindness.

When in Rome...

As for Benny, I feel confident that his services sprang from a pure heart. He was enjoying the night, too, and maybe living a little bit vicariously through us. We were drinking the wine he suggested, and no doubt enjoyed at the end of his shift, perhaps even at the same table. And I'd wager that he topped off a lucrative night with a massive bowl of frutti de mare on the first spring night in New York.

Comments

[Naomi]

Let me know YOUR favorite server in New York!

[Sarah Goldstein]

I agree that the recession has been good for the return of customer service. As consumers we are more careful with our disposable income and restaurants, bars, shops, boutiques, and yes, cabbies are taking notice. I want to know about more places that are going the extra mile to bring service with a smile!

[Paul Woodward]

I'm sure you're right Naomi. Here in Hong Kong, the taxi drivers' English skills are in direct inverse proportion to the health of the economy. They're remarkably fluent these days!

[Jason]

Ingredients for restaurant specials, especially seafood, are shipped in fresh on Thursdays or Fridays for the weekend. When you see a seafood medley special on a Sunday night or Monday that's drowned in a cream sauce--expect the seafood to be not-so-fresh.